The Abominable

 

Talk about an emotional rollercoaster! The book opens with an excerpt from the author, Dan Simmons, explaining to you that the next 600 or so pages... basically the story you are about to read, is not his. Simmons had the opportunity to meet and chat with a guy who had spent time in Antarctica in the early 1900s. Simmons wanted to write a book about that. He spends an entire day with this man, named Jacob Perry, talking only about life and Antarctica. Before he leaves, Perry informs Simmons he is dying, but has another story to tell; one that has nothing to do with Antarctica. He has never told another soul before and still does not know if he can, but he believes the world needs to know this tale.

Simmons cannot spend longer with Perry, and Perry is dying of lung cancer and cannot talk much longer so Simmons gives Perry a leather-bound journal and tells him to write it all down. Simmons leaves, and a year later, multiple boxes arrive at his home from the deceased Jacob Perry. In the boxes are tons of leather-bound journals, all written in Perry's own hand-writing, documenting this story of his. Perry tells Simmons "if you think the story is good and people will want to read, publish it."


Thus begins the incredible, gut-wrenching journey of Jacob Perry's recovery mission to Mount Everest 1924-25. Jacob Perry, a Frenchman Jean Claude, and a Briton Richard Deacon, are charged with recovering the body of a Lord Percy Bromley from Mount Everest.  (Remember, the previous year both Sandy Irvine and George Mallory took a huge group up to try and summit Mount Everest; the group returned, Mallory and Irvine did not. Only Mallory's body was found in 1999.)

What is the young British man doing up on Everest? Why is it so imperative his body be found? Why do the German hikers, men such as Bruno Sigl and Rudolph Hess (soon to be one of Hitler's inner circle) not want the British to continue their mission? Did WW I really and truly end? Or are the battles still being fought, just in different circles? Was it actually possible to summit Mount Everest in the 1920s? Do you choose the new gear (in 2013, any good mountain climber and hiker never goes anywhere without these pieces of gear) which has never been tried before, but in theory sounds like it should work? EX: crampons, shorter ice axes, "magic" climbing rope, eider-down jackets with fewer layers of wool clothing, lighter oxygen masks.. to name a few.

Can an alpine ascent on Everest actually work? (This is how we climb mountains today) Can you get rid of the "siege" tactic of climbing mountains? Which face is better: the North or South? How do you deal with the bitter, bitter, unimaginable cold? How do you battle with the demons in your mind as you live continuous days at an altitude of over 24,000 feet?

So many more questions to be asked and answered as you read!

For those of you who like to hike/climb mountains or just enjoy the view of them, the book will speak to your heart. You will be able to picture yourself in instances where you thought you could not make that next step, that next pitch..... but you did. The view from the top of the mountain was worth every curse word, bumps/bruises and tears.

For those of you who have never experienced this, no worries! The book is an incredible read! Just gloss over some of the finer details about mountain climbing if you get bogged down in the middle of the book.

Each time I think back to the book, I find myself in awe of the courage and determination man shows himself and others, in both the daylight and the dark. The horrors of WW I and the coming WW II are just as horrific as we are taught about, and affected the entire world in unimaginable ways. The will of man to fight... to LIVE... is incredibly strong. 

"Getting to the top is optional; getting down is mandatory."

         -Ed Viesturs-